In focus: Collagen. Do drinks and supplements really work?
Collagen drinks are creating waves across social media platforms, from Instagram to TikTok, where the hashtag #collagen has amassed over 4.4 billion views. These trendy elixirs promise plump, glowing skin with every sip, but the question remains: are they truly effective or just a passing #sponcon fad? To unravel the mystery, we've enlisted experts to investigate the science behind collagen drinks and supplements, aiming to determine if they are genuinely worth incorporating into your diet and monthly budget.
The widespread influence of social media and celebrities in promoting collagen as a beauty and health elixir.
The hype surrounding collagen drinks and supplements is fuelled by celebrities and influencers who sing praises of miraculous benefits for skin, hair, and nails. Given collagen's essential role in supporting these tissues in our bodies, the idea that consuming collagen could result in lush locks and a youthful glow appears plausible.
Indeed, marketing for collagen products boldly asserts improvements in skin elasticity, the reduction of visible wrinkles, and increased blood flow to the skin. Celebrities and influencers worldwide are championing collagen drinks, endorsing them as a transformative elixir for skin and overall health. Whether in the form of smoothies, flavoured waters, powders, or capsules, consumers are eagerly embracing collagen as the next big trend in health and beauty.
However, the crucial question persists: what does the science say about these claims?
I have two other questions:
Are celebrities and major influencers advertising products for free, sharing with you how wonderful those products are (they have of course tried and tested themselves!), from the goodness of their hearts?
Do you really think that celebrities will use on themselves the affordable versions they are sharing with you, or do they use the most expensive, most reliable products, you could ever afford?
Celebrities, especially if they are A-listers (those with the most ‘power’ in the media and, of course, the most influential), can spend many hours in make-up and hair before appearing in public, like a TV set or a premiere. A TV requires even more effort and a lot of software to reach the desired results like flawless skin, tone and shine.
So, how would you expect to get the same results by buying mass-produced cosmetics in your local supermarket?
The Science Behind Collagen
Collagen, a structural powerhouse in our tissues, plays a key role in skin, hair, nails, tendons, cartilage, and bones. Working in harmony with companions like hyaluronic acid and elastin, collagen maintains skin elasticity, volume, and moisture. It even contributes to the formation of proteins like keratin, the building blocks of skin, hair, and nails.
Diagram showing the structure of healthy skin with the different layers: epidermis, dermis and adipose tissue. Collagen fibres and elastin are also represented in the illustration.
Our bodies, naturally producing collagen from amino acids found in protein-rich foods like bone broth, meat, and fish, face a challenge with factors like ageing, sun damage, chronic lack of sleep, smoking, and alcohol consumption, which decrease collagen production.
Collagen drinks and supplements, often boast a blend from various sources such as fish, cattle, pigs, or chicken, either in their raw form or hydrolysed (collagen that’s been broken down into smaller molecular weight and easily digestible peptides). These products contain peptides, or short chains of amino acids, which are crucial to manufacturing proteins inside a body cell, including collagen and keratin.
Research on skin speaks volumes:
- A comprehensive analysis of 19 studies published in the International Journal of Dermatology showcased improvements in skin firmness, suppleness, and moisture with collagen supplements. However, the cocktail of additional ingredients in these supplements leaves a question mark on the true cause of these enhancements.
- Randomised, controlled trials indicate that collagen supplements, rich in specific peptides, can boost skin moisture, and elasticity, and reduce wrinkles. Yet, the need for large-scale, high-quality studies remains to validate the effectiveness and safety of commercially available products, the products you end up buying and trusting.
As for hair and nails, the evidence is barely sufficient. A small study on brittle nails hinted at improvement with collagen supplementation, but the lack of a placebo group raises eyebrows. Hair, unfortunately, remains uncharted territory, with no solid medical evidence supporting claims of enhanced growth, shine, volume, or thickness.
So, is the science to be trusted?
What is the message resonating online?
If you search for collagen online, you may end up with millions of results, mostly conflicting with one another, with some authors with biased, unreferenced articles that aren’t afraid to make bold, unproven claims.
You may have come across such statements as:
Despite encouraging research findings, some individuals remain doubtful about the efficacy of collagen supplements. A prevalent misconception suggests that the body cannot absorb ingested collagen due to its breakdown into amino acids during digestion.
While it's accurate that collagen undergoes digestion breakdown, studies indicate that these amino acids can still can promote collagen production within the body. Notably, specific amino acids present in collagen, such as proline and glycine, are essential for synthesising new collagen proteins.
What the authors, influencers and manufacturers are betting on is logic: ingesting protein will support body functions and protein synthesis. Wow! What a discovery!
Some amino acids are not called “essential” for anything. They are essential for the normal functioning of our bodies and overall health. Indeed, these amino acids need to be brought by our diet.
So the digestive tract breaks down protein (from meat, fish or plants, or even collagen supplements) into amino acids, which are assimilated by gut lining cells, and then our body cells recombine them to make proteins (using codes and as instructed by our DNA) to respond to the needs of the body. Protein complexes can be directed to muscle tissue, organs, connective tissue, and enzymes.
Here are some other types of proteins and their roles:
Structural Proteins: These proteins provide support and structure to cells and tissues. Examples include collagen, which forms the structural framework for skin, bones, teeth, cornea, and connective tissues.
Transport Proteins: Proteins like hemoglobin transport molecules, such as oxygen, through the bloodstream.
Antibodies: These proteins are part of the immune system and help defend the body against foreign invaders like bacteria and viruses.
Contractile Proteins: Proteins such as actin and myosin are essential for muscle contraction and movement.
Receptor Proteins: These proteins are located on cell surfaces and play a role in transmitting signals into cells in response to specific stimuli.
Storage Proteins: Some proteins serve as a source of amino acids for the body when needed. For example, albumin stores amino acids in the bloodstream.
Enzyme Cofactors: While enzymes themselves are proteins, they often require non-protein molecules, called cofactors, to function effectively. Common co-factors include magnesium, zinc, and B vitamins.
Hormones:
Insulin: Produced by the pancreas, insulin is a protein hormone that plays a crucial role in regulating blood sugar levels by facilitating the uptake of glucose by cells.
Growth Hormone (GH): Secreted by the pituitary gland, GH stimulates growth and cell reproduction.
Thyroid Stimulating Hormone (TSH): Released by the pituitary gland, TSH stimulates the thyroid gland to produce and release thyroid hormones.
Follicle-Stimulating Hormone (FSH) and Luteinizing Hormone (LH): Both FSH and LH are produced by the pituitary gland and play key roles in the regulation of the reproductive system.
Prolactin: Also produced by the pituitary gland, prolactin stimulates milk production in mammary glands.
Parathyroid Hormone (PTH): Secreted by the parathyroid glands, PTH regulates calcium and phosphorus levels in the blood.
Calcitonin: Produced by the thyroid gland, calcitonin helps regulate calcium levels in the blood.
Adrenocorticotropic Hormone (ACTH): Released by the pituitary gland, ACTH stimulates the adrenal glands to produce cortisol.
Expecting that the body will use collagen to make collagen is over-simplifying the process. The body will make up what it needs, and yes, this includes collagen, but as you can see, proteins are needed for a multitude of functions and target tissues.
“The global collagen market size was valued at USD 9.12 billion in 2022 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10.2% from 2023 to 2030. This is attributable to the rising use of the product in various industries such as cosmetics and is expected to propel market demand. Additionally, the demand is driven by increasing consumer investment in healthcare and well-being. Moreover, the rising importance of improving immunity post-pandemic has further strengthened the industry’s growth.”
Should you take the plunge into collagen supplements or drinks?
The verdict: The jury is still out.
There's insufficient proof that these products make a significant difference in skin, hair, or nails. Indeed, the challenge lies in the absorption of collagen, which must be broken down into peptides for our bodies to absorb it through the gut.
While collagen may contribute to proteins like keratin or form collagen in different body parts, no concrete evidence supports the claim that orally ingested collagen ends up in your skin, hair, or nails.
For skin texture, elasticity, and wrinkle reduction, your best bet is sun protection and a good, natural, skincare routine.
If you decide to give collagen supplements or drinks a shot, first check the ingredient list and protein profile. Steer clear of products overloaded with additives or fillers, and sugar. Opt for formulations high in specific ‘clean’ peptides for better results.
Who shouldn’t use collagen?
Collagen is accessible to nearly everyone, but it's essential to exercise caution if you follow a vegan lifestyle or have allergies or intolerances to animal products, as most collagen products are made using animal-derived collagen. Like there are vegan protein powders, there are collagen powders and drinks that are vegan-friendly.
Some collagen products use pork or shellfish and may not be suitable for people following a certain religion.
Those prone to gout or with medical conditions limiting protein intake should steer clear.
Vegan Collagen
Vegan collagen is typically derived from plant-based sources. Common sources include ingredients like soy, wheat, or other plant proteins that mimic the collagen structure. Additionally, some companies produce vegan collagen by using genetically modified yeast and bacteria to create a protein with similar properties to animal-derived collagen. It's important to check product labels for specific details on the source of vegan collagen used in a particular supplement or product.
Manufacturers are also developing synthetic forms of collagen in an effort to cut cost but, as always, we will know too late the effects on the human body.
In a nutshell:
Large-scale trials on the oral benefits of collagen supplements for skin and hair health are still on the drawing board. If you have concerns with your hair, or brittle nails, or looking for radiant skin, consult your doctor or dermatologist for a tailored approach.
A holistic practitioner may also look at the cause and propose a bespoke approach to healthier, stronger hair and nails. It is clear that many nutrients, including minerals and vitamins, are essential for healthy skin, hair and nails, and relying solely on collagen products to make up for a bad diet will offer no positive results.
And don't forget the basics:
Embrace a healthy lifestyle with a balanced, protein-rich diet.
Keep well-hydrated. Watch your caffeine intake (and other diuretics)
Give up smoking.
Keep alcohol consumption in check.
Avoid (or protect yourself with clothing from) sun exposure during the hottest hours
Sleep! Deep sleep is required for normal healing and repair of the body, so if your sleep balance is always in credit, then supplements will probably have little effect, and you’ll probably waste your money.
Deal with inflammation at the core.
Inflammation and collagen
There is a significant link between inflammation and collagen in the body. Inflammation is a complex biological response triggered by the immune system in response to injury, infection, or harmful stimuli. Collagen, being a key structural protein, plays a crucial role in this process.
Here's how inflammation and collagen are interconnected:
Collagen in Tissue Repair: When tissues are damaged due to injury or infection, the body initiates an inflammatory response to repair and heal the affected area. Collagen is a major component of the extracellular matrix, providing structural support to tissues. During tissue repair, collagen is synthesised to rebuild and strengthen the damaged structure.
Inflammatory Cells and Collagen Synthesis: Inflammatory cells, such as macrophages, play a vital role in the synthesis and regulation of collagen. They release cytokines and growth factors that stimulate fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production. This process is crucial for the formation of new connective tissue during the healing phase of inflammation.
Chronic Inflammation and Collagen Disorders: Prolonged or chronic inflammation can lead to disruptions in collagen homeostasis. In conditions like rheumatoid arthritis, where chronic inflammation persists, there is an increased production of collagen-degrading enzymes, leading to joint damage and degradation of collagen-rich tissues.
Collagen as a Target of Inflammation: In certain autoimmune diseases, the immune system mistakenly targets and attacks collagen, leading to conditions such as rheumatoid arthritis and systemic lupus erythematosus. In these cases, inflammation directly impacts the integrity of collagen in various tissues.
Skin Health: Inflammation can affect the skin's collagen, leading to conditions like dermatitis and other inflammatory skin disorders. Chronic inflammation may contribute to premature ageing by influencing collagen breakdown.
Do you think collagen, the so-called elixir of youth, will provide any benefits in those cases?
Supplementation is not taking a substance and praying for the best outcome, supplementation is responding to a deficiency in the body or a greater need for certain substances (e.g., cramps may indicate suboptimal levels of magnesium in the body or greater requirements due to a heightened stress response, just to give one example).
Plus, do you really know what is in the product you buy? Is it in a form the body can utilise? What is the recommended daily dosage, 1 pill, 6 pills, or more? How often should you take it and for how long?
Don’t know who to trust?
Sources of collagen
Bovine Collagen: Derived primarily from the Achilles tendon, bovine collagen is a major industrial source due to its low immunogenicity and compatibility with most of the population. However, extraction methods and tissue types may introduce variability in composition. Concerns over disease transmission and allergies in approximately 3% of the population have prompted the exploration of safer alternatives.
Porcine Collagen: Widely used in industry for its low antigenicity and resemblance to human collagen, porcine collagen is obtained from the dermis and small intestinal mucosa. Despite its efficacy in various applications, it poses zoonotic risks (can transmit disease to humans) and faces restrictions in some regions due to religious considerations. In East Asian countries, porcine collagen is a dietary staple, incorporated into items like bone broth and confectionery for its health and beauty benefits.
Marine Collagen: Of great interest due to its distinct properties, marine collagen stands out for its biological, chemical, and mechanical characteristics. Sourced from marine invertebrates and vertebrates like fish, jellyfish, and sea urchins, marine collagen is considered ‘generally recognized as safe’ (GRAS) by the FDA. It boasts high collagen fibre content, low molecular weight for enhanced absorption, and poses fewer ethical, religious, and regulatory concerns compared to animal-derived collagen.
Rodent Collagen: Rat-tail tendon collagen is a common choice in research, offering high yields of type I collagen. However, age-related changes in its chemical and mechanical properties, such as decreased elasticity and increased resistance to force, are notable considerations.
Other Animal and Human Sources: Collagen can be sourced from various animals, including chicken, kangaroo, duck, equine, alligator, sheep, and even humans. Recombinant human collagen is utilised for its low immunogenicity compared to other sources.
Chemically and Synthetic Collagen: To address concerns like batch-to-batch variation and immunogenicity, chemically synthesised collagen, such as KOD, has been explored. Additionally, synthetic collagen sources developed through synthetic biology tools offer contaminant-free alternatives, devoid of heterogeneity across species, pathogen transfer, and immunogenicity. Recombinant human collagen produced in various expression systems, including yeast, plants, insects, and mammalian cells, has been investigated for its potential industrial-scale production, with considerations for post-translational modifications and yield limitations.
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